ByIANSlife Features

September 10, 2019 (IANSlife) When it's festival season, jewellery is the top of everyone’s mind. Rajasthan, especially Jaipur is the mecca for gemstones and craftsmanship of the highest quality. IANS Life speaks to heirloom jewellery brand, Raniwala, on what it takes to sustain a name in the business.

As a heritage jewellery brand since 1881, what sets you a apart from others? 
Raniwala Jewelers: Our design philosophy and atelier differentiates us from the other existing brands in our segment. Our designs are bold, trendy, colourful, but rooted in the culture The designs are a wonderful mélange of Western and Indian design trends. We see fusion jewellery gaining good demand in the near future. Raniwala designs and manufactures jewellery in house under one roof and that gives us an edge over others.

Jaipur is the heart of Indian jewellery manufacturing. How are Jaipur-based jewellery houses different from their rivals across the country?
Raniwala Jewelers: Jaipur has rapidly climbed up the jewellery manufacturing and retail value chain by successfully incorporating experience and tradition with technology and innovation. It has built upon this rich tradition to turn the city into a leading center for coloured stone cutting and trading.

Tell us about your journey.
Raniwala Jewelers: The legacy of Raniwala family began in 1881 with our great grandfather Rai Bahadur Champalalji Raniwala of Beawar, who was an avid collector of the finest gems and stones. With an eye for opulent jewellery, he started designing and manufacturing exclusive pieces for close family members. He made elaborate jadau, kundan and navratna sets accentuated by emeralds, pearls and stones. Slowly the word spread and he had requests from various people. I believe I inherited my passion to master the craft from my grandfather as I watched him for hours in multiple capacities. So I did a course in diamonds and precious stones from Choron Diamonds in Moscow and returned to Jaipur to educate myself about the local industry.
I decided to combine our expertise and ardour for jewellery with our family heritage to carve a niche in the jadau industry and co-founded Raniwala brand in 2006 with my father and brother, Abhiyant.

While clothes are getting more minimal, jewellery continues to be maximal? What is the reason for this?
Raniwala Jewelers: I believe that the trend is going more millennial, instead of maximal. The millennials like more colourful and pastel jewellery, hence we use a lot of meenakari work and coloured stones which makes the jewellery look more elaborate, but  light at the same time. Also, since the clothes are getting more minimal, jewellery adds the 'wow' factor to the look. For instance, opting for layered necklaces or a statement jewellery piece, with an open neckline outfit would complete the look. Also, if you're wearing a bold pair of earrings, your necklace could be more subtle or not there at all. On the other hand, a bold pair of earrings with a matching necklace can work beautifully too.

Please explain modern Jadau.
Raniwala Jewelers: Modern jadau is the technique of making jadau without using any wax, it is also called open setting jadau. It is the fusion of uncut diamond and brilliant cut (diamond with coloured stones) which makes the jewellery very light-weight as well.

Tell us about your collaboration with Manish Malhotra. 
Raniwala Jewelers: Manish is a creative powerhouse and a self-taught fashion guru. He is incredibly humble even though he is one of the most sought-after Indian designers today and his creative flair, passion, attention to detail and intuition are the driving forces for what he has achieved and the stature he enjoys in the industry today. 
We, as a company, have been trying to transition our traditional bridal jewellery to something more upbeat for the modern bride and Manish Malhotra becomes a natural fit in that.
Malhotra's team approached us last year to come on board as the jewellery partner for designer's couture show. Though the collaboration did not work out, Abhishek Raniwala did end attend the show and came back really impressed. It was then that he decided that we should pursue a long-term collaboration with Manish Malhotra.

What are the jewellery trends for this festive season?
Raniwala Jewelers: Fashionable, floral, light-weighted and layered jewellery
While the quality of the gemstone is of importance, craftsmanship is equally significant. Comment.
In the changing times when the customers are quite aware of the quality and standardisation of coloured stones, I think gemstone and craftsmanship, both have to be at par in a piece of jewellery. The synchronisation and combination of the coloured stones is the key to making a piece. The craftsmanship  and the quality of a gemstone are both important and end of day both of these determine the quality of jewellery.

The artisans who hand craft pieces are poorly paid. Comment.
Raniwala Jewelers: The jadau craft is a sophisticated technique in the handcrafted jewellery industry. The artisans in the industry have a monopoly as this craft is practiced only in Jaipur. The artisans have great knowledge and expertise of the craft, which is passed to them through generation. Thus, they are paid a fair price and  generally get the wage they demand, because of the monopoly they have with regards to the craft. Also, with the rise in gold price, the artisans get a cut as well.

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Editing by Ritu Pandey and N. Lothungbeni Humtsoe